U S H B A
N o r t h P e a k classic
4 6 9 0 m.
DURATION > 12 Days
PRICE > From 3700 €
GROUP SIZE > Max. 2 person
DIFFICULTY LEVEL > Advance
Ushba the crown of the Caucasus, located in the Upper Svaneti region of Georgia and rises near the west end of the South Caucasus Mountains.
In September 1888, Swiss guide Ulrich Almer and Englishman John Garford Cockin made the first ascent of Ushba’s North Peak by climbing to the Saddle, between the two summits, from the Guli Glacier to the east.
The classic and most frequented route to the North Peak is the north ridge, approached via the Ushba Glacier, starting from the village of Mazeri. A long glacier climb leads to a camp at the Ushba Plateau (3850m.) through the shoulder, called “The Pillow,” below the final ridge.
The route is 4A (considered at least French AD+, but long and serious), and favorable conditions on the route are crucial to success. On the summit day, proper planning of climbing tactics, and organization of effective protection on the ridge are decisive factors for safe ascent and descent.
USHBA a new route on the northwest face made “CAUCASUS HIGHLIGHTS” founders and guides in 2020.
https://alpinemag.com/magnificent-new-lines-climbed-on-ushba-and-ailama-in-georgia/
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215821
The best season for climbing: The middle of July — end of August. Weather is the most stable.
Guide Ratio 1:1
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Our mountain Guides have an average of over 10 years of experience in the industry, and a high record of safe, summit climbing. Safety is always our number one priority.
Our guides are mountaineers, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills.
The New route of USHBA (south peak, 4,710m), made “CAUCASUS HIGHLIGHTS” founders and guides in 2020.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215821
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Fitness
The route requires good, intensive physical preparation in advance. Climbers must be in good physical shape to join this expedition.
Technical
Mountaineering experience is required. It is necessary to know the technique of working with a rope and the organization of protection, a good level of rock and ice climbing.
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Day 1 : Arrive Kutaisi \ Tbilisi. You will be meet at the airport by a Caucasus Adventures representative and transferred to the hotel.
Day 2 : Travel to Mestia. In the morning, we will check all equipment, sort and organize our gear and supplies, departure.
Accommodation in a Hotel.
Day 3 : Hiking to “Hunters” camp (2800 m.). we transfer to 4WD vehicles for the last 5 km to village of Mazeri. We will load the horses with our equipment and start hiking ( a 5-6 hour hike to the Camp ).
Overnight in tents.
Day 4 : Ascent to Advance BC Camp (4000 m.). A long glacier climb leads to a camp at the Ushba Plateau.
Overnight in tents.
Day 5 : Ascent to Higher Camp (4250 m.). Climb leads to a camp at the Ushba Plateau through the shoulder, called the “Pillow,” below the final ridge.
Overnight in tents.
Day 6 : Ushba Summit Day. (4690 m.). Returning to our high camp.
Overnight in tents.
Day 7 : Descend to “Hunters” camp (2800 m.)
Overnight in tents.
Day 8 : Descend to the village of Mazeri. Transfer to the village, back to the Mestia. Accommodation in a hotel
Day 9 : Reserve Day.
Day 10 : Reserve Day.
Day 11 : Drive to Kutaisi \ Tbilisi. We travel by 4WD vehicles back to the town. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 12 : Departure.
Transfer to the airport (Kutaisi-Tbilisi)
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Best season for climbing: July - August
Guide Ratio 1:1
BASIC PACKAGE For the 2024 season.
| Group size: max. 2 person |
Group of 1 – 4300 €
Group of 2 – 3700 €
Costs Include:
. Airport pick-up and transfer to the hotel
. Hotel accommodation
. Transportation during the program on a regular itinerary
. Ropes, and other group climbing equipment
. Mountain guide and local support staff
. Meals on mountain/Base camp
. Porter for transporting gear
Costs Do Not Include:
. Food or dining outside of the climbing period
Personal clothing and climbing equipment
. Personal travel insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical or security evacuation insurance
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Mountaineering Gear
Expedition Backpack: approximately 45 L +. Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
Trekking Poles: with Snow baskets
Ice Axe: For technical mountaineering and ice climbing
Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops
Carabineers: 2 regular and 4 locking
Belay/Rappel Device
Headlamp: with extra sets of new batteries
Duffel Bag with Lock: for transporting gear and storing street clothes, etc. at hotel/car
Footwear
Mountaineering Boots: for alpine and ice climbing
mountaineering wool Socks
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -15
Self-inflating Sleeping Pad: full length is preferred
Clothing- Essentials
Hard Shell Jacket with Hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulation Layers
Insulated Down or Synthetic Jacket with hood
Insulated Pants
Headwear: Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
Cap: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun
Eyewear - Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap-around, protection for 3-4th category
Gloves - Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves: for wearing on warm days
Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
Thermos (optional): 1-liter
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip Screen: SPF 40
Small Personal First-aid Kit: includes athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, etc.
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing
Ushba climbing